The Fascinating History of Wristwatches: From Battlefield Tool to Status Symbol

We take them for granted now—these little time-telling devices strapped to our wrists. But the journey of how watches migrated from pockets to wrists is a fascinating tale involving world wars, royal fashion statements, daring explorers, and technological revolutions.

I’ve been captivated by this history ever since my grandfather showed me his WWII-era military watch, explaining how it was literally a matter of life and death for coordinating troop movements. His stories sparked a lifelong interest in not just watches themselves, but the historical context that shaped their evolution.

Let’s take a journey through time to understand how the wristwatch evolved from a feminine novelty to an essential tool, and finally to the versatile accessory we know today.

The Early Days: “Wristlets” and Royal Influence

The First Wristwatches: A Woman’s Accessory

Contrary to what many assume, the first wristwatches weren’t created for men. In the late 1800s, watches were predominantly pocket watches carried by men, while the earliest wristwatches—then called “wristlets”—were designed as jewelry for women.

In 1868, Patek Philippe created what is often cited as the first true wristwatch for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary. It was a decorative piece featuring a bejeweled bracelet with a small watch face integrated into the design—more jewelry than timekeeper.

Men of this era generally considered wristwatches to be effeminate and impractical. A “real” gentleman used a proper pocket watch, preferably one with complications (additional features beyond basic timekeeping) that demonstrated both wealth and appreciation for mechanical craftsmanship.

The Royal Game-Changer

The perception began to shift slightly when a few prominent figures broke convention. Most notably, Queen Victoria purchased several “bracelet watches” in the 1880s, helping to establish them as a fashionable accessory for wealthy women.

But perhaps the most significant royal influence came when Alberto Santos-Dumont, a Brazilian aviation pioneer, complained to his friend Louis Cartier about the difficulty of checking a pocket watch while flying his early aircraft. In response, Cartier designed the Santos wristwatch in 1904—one of the first purpose-designed men’s wristwatches and still an iconic design today.

Still, the wristwatch remained primarily a woman’s accessory, with men largely sticking to their pocket watches. It would take a global conflict to truly change that.

The Great War: From Novelty to Necessity

World War I: The Trench Watch Is Born

World War I (1914-1918) transformed the wristwatch from a feminine novelty to a masculine necessity. The synchronized warfare of trench combat required precise timing for artillery bombardments and coordinated attacks. Officers found pocket watches impractical in battle conditions—fumbling to retrieve a watch from a pocket could be dangerous or even fatal.

The solution? Military “trench watches” or “officer’s watches” that featured:

• Protective covers (often metal grilles) over the crystal
• Luminous dials using radium paint for visibility in darkness
• Unbreakable crystals (relative to the technology of the time)
• Sturdy leather straps that wouldn’t break in rough conditions

These watches weren’t just convenient—they were potentially life-saving tools. By the end of the war, many soldiers had become accustomed to the practicality of wristwatches and continued wearing them upon returning to civilian life.

Design Evolution: Form Follows Function

The demands of warfare led to significant design innovations that still influence watches today:

• Legibility: Large numerals and high-contrast dials became standard
• Durability: Cases became more robust to withstand battlefield conditions
• Water resistance: Early attempts at protecting the movement from moisture
• Luminosity: The application of radium (later replaced due to its radioactivity) for nighttime readability

One particularly notable development was the “wire lug” design, where wire loops were soldered to pocket watch cases to attach straps—a makeshift solution that evolved into the integrated lugs we see on modern watches.

The Interwar Period: From Practical to Fashionable

The Roaring Twenties: Style Meets Function

By the 1920s, wristwatches had gained social acceptance for men, though pocket watches were still common. Watch companies recognized the growing market and began producing more elegant designs for civilian use.

Art Deco, the dominant design aesthetic of the era, heavily influenced watch design with:

• Geometric shapes and patterns
• Rectangular and square watch cases (a departure from the traditional round shape)
• Bold numerals and styling
• Integration of the strap and case as a cohesive design element

This period saw the rise of iconic designs like the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso (1931), created for polo players who needed to protect their watch crystals during matches, and the Cartier Tank (introduced in 1919, but popularized in the 1920s), inspired by the aerial view of military tanks.

Technical Innovations

The interwar period also brought significant technical advancements:

• Improvements in shock resistance
• Better water resistance (though not yet truly waterproof)
• More precise movements
• The first self-winding (automatic) wristwatches, like the Harwood system in 1923

These developments helped cement the wristwatch’s place as not just a fashion accessory but a reliable timekeeping tool.

World War II: The Golden Age of Tool Watches

Military Specifications and Mass Production

If World War I introduced the wristwatch to men, World War II perfected it as a tool. Military forces worldwide developed detailed specifications for service watches, leading to the archetypal field watch design.

Key developments included:

• Standardization: Militaries issued specific requirements for watches
• Hack feature: The ability to stop the second hand for precise synchronization
• Improved water resistance: Better seals and case designs
• Anti-magnetic properties: To function near military equipment

The most iconic military watches of this era include:

• The “Dirty Dozen” – twelve watch companies that produced watches to British Ministry of Defence specifications
• The A-11 American military watch
• The German B-Uhr (navigator’s watch) with its distinctive oversized design

The Birth of Specialized Tool Watches

WWII and its immediate aftermath saw the birth of purpose-designed watches for specific environments:

The Dive Watch In 1953, Rolex launched the Submariner, and Blancpain released the Fifty Fathoms—both pioneering the modern dive watch with rotating timing bezels and improved water resistance. These were tools first, fashion statements second.

The Pilot’s Chronograph Building on wartime designs, watches like the Breitling Navitimer (1952) included special scales and functions specifically for aviation calculations.

The Explorer’s Watch The conquest of Mount Everest in 1953 by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay (wearing a Rolex) helped establish the category of watches designed for extreme exploration and environments.

This era represents perhaps the purest expression of the wristwatch as a specialized tool, before fashion considerations would once again take precedence.

The Post-War Era: Democratization and Mass Appeal

The 1950s and 60s: The Golden Age of Mechanical Watches

The post-war economic boom created a growing middle class with disposable income. Watch companies responded by producing more affordable watches while maintaining quality and durability.

This period saw the emergence of many iconic designs still produced today:

• The Rolex Datejust (technically introduced in 1945, but popularized in the 1950s)
• The Omega Speedmaster (1957)
• The Rolex Day-Date “President” (1956)
• The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (1972)

These decades represented perhaps the pinnacle of mechanical watchmaking, with a perfect balance of hand craftsmanship and modern manufacturing techniques.

Cultural Impact: The Watch as Status Symbol

Watches began appearing prominently in popular culture, especially in films. The James Bond franchise, beginning in 1962, turned watches into aspirational objects. Sean Connery’s Rolex Submariner became as much a part of the 007 character as his Aston Martin or Walther PPK.

The watch was no longer just a tool or a fashion accessory—it was becoming a statement about identity, success, and values.

The Quartz Crisis: Revolution and Disruption

The Seiko Shock

The most revolutionary moment in modern watch history came in 1969 when Seiko introduced the Astron, the world’s first commercially available quartz wristwatch. It was 100 times more accurate than the best mechanical watches and required far less maintenance.

The Swiss watch industry, which had dominated for centuries, was caught unprepared for this technological leap from Japan. By the late 1970s, quartz watches had become cheaper to produce and more accurate than mechanical ones, leading to what the Swiss called the “Quartz Crisis” (and what the Japanese might call the “Quartz Revolution”).

The statistics were staggering:

• Swiss watch industry employment fell from 90,000 to 28,000
• The number of Swiss watch companies dropped from 1,600 to 600
• Quartz watch prices plummeted, making accurate timekeeping accessible to everyone

The Mass Market Transformation

The 1980s saw the proliferation of inexpensive, reliable quartz watches that dramatically changed consumer expectations. Brands like Casio, Timex, and Swatch offered watches with features mechanical watches couldn’t match:

• Digital displays
• Multiple time zones at a glance
• Alarms and timers
• Calculators and other functions
• Vibrant colors and designs previously impossible

The Swatch phenomenon deserves special mention—launched in 1983, it repositioned the Swiss watch as a fashionable, collectible accessory rather than competing on precision or longevity. This approach helped revitalize the Swiss watch industry from its lowest point.

The Mechanical Renaissance and Modern Era

The Return of the Mechanical Watch

By the late 1980s and early 1990s, something unexpected happened: mechanical watches made a comeback, not as practical timekeepers, but as luxury items and expressions of heritage craftsmanship.

Companies like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet, who had maintained their focus on mechanical watchmaking through the Quartz Crisis, found a new audience appreciating the artistry of traditional horology.

Key factors in this renaissance included:

• Appreciation for craftsmanship in an increasingly digital world
• The emotional connection to mechanical movements
• The investment potential of luxury watches
• The prestige associated with traditional watchmaking heritage

The Modern Landscape: Something for Everyone

Today’s watch landscape is remarkably diverse:

Traditional Luxury Swiss giants like Rolex, Omega, and Patek Philippe continue to produce high-end mechanical watches, with prices and waiting lists often rising annually.

Independent Watchmaking Artisan watchmakers like F.P. Journe, Philippe Dufour, and Roger Smith create small numbers of exceptional timepieces representing the pinnacle of the craft.

Heritage Revival Many brands mine their archives to recreate vintage designs with modern technology, appealing to nostalgia and vintage aesthetics.

Smartwatches Apple, Samsung, and Garmin lead a category that connects to our digital lives, offering functionality mechanical watches never could.

Affordable Mechanical Watches Brands like Seiko, Orient, and microbrands offer mechanical watches at prices that make traditional watchmaking accessible to more enthusiasts.

The Future of Wristwatches: Evolution Continues

The story of the wristwatch is far from over. As we look to the future, several trends seem likely:

The Luxury Divide The separation between watches as utilitarian devices (now mainly smartwatches) and watches as luxury items or status symbols (primarily mechanical) will likely continue to grow.

Sustainability Focus Watch companies are increasingly addressing environmental and ethical concerns, from sourcing materials to manufacturing processes.

Digital Integration Even traditional watchmakers are exploring ways to integrate digital technology without compromising their heritage—from Montblanc’s e-Strap to hybrid watches with hidden smart functions.

Customization and Personalization Advanced manufacturing techniques are enabling greater personalization of watches at all price points.

Conclusion: More Than Just Timekeepers

From battlefield tool to royal jewelry, from technological revolution to artisanal renaissance, the wristwatch has played numerous roles in our culture over the past century and a half.

What makes this evolution so fascinating is that watches have transcended their basic function of telling time. In an age when we’re surrounded by digital devices that display the time, the enduring appeal of the wristwatch speaks to something deeper—our connection to history, our appreciation for craftsmanship, and our desire to express our identity through what we wear.

Whether you check the time on a hand-finished mechanical masterpiece, a reliable quartz timekeeper, or the latest smartwatch, you’re participating in this ongoing story—the rich, complex history of the device on your wrist that does so much more than just tell time.

What’s your favorite era of watch history? Do you have a vintage timepiece with its own story to tell? Share your thoughts and experiences in the comments below!

SEE also

Rolex
Omega
Patek Philippe
Audemars Piguet
TAG Heuer
Seiko
Longines
Tissot
Casio
Citizen